WELCOME to the shady world of tomato worms AKA budworms!!

This is not your standard cabbage moth with green caterpillar larvae. As you can see from the photo above it is brown in colour and known as “budworm”.  Unlike the white caterpillar moth that you see floating around your garden space (which I hate to break it to you, can still devastate your summer crops), the larva of this moth isn’t seen much around the garden because it likes to run rampant during the night!  Much like the moth, the larvae (budworm) are really hard to see as well….that is of course until it’s too late!

It’s funny how one year they aren’t a problem and then the next they are wreaking havoc on your tomatoes.

By now, like me, you’re probably in a bit of a tiz and ready to wage a war against these tiny and hard to find critters so let’s dig in and discuss some ways to recover once your crop has been infested and talk about some ways to tackle the problem NEXT year.

As an organic gardener I’m not one to spray hard core chemicals on my crops which does leave you in a more challenging predicament if tomato worms/caterpillars are already engulfing your mature crops.

Here are some ways to help contain the damage and harvest those hard earned tomatoes without holes……

INSPECT & DESTROY

This can seem overwhelming on huge mature crops particularly if you have a lot of tomato plants (believe me I feel you) but the reality is it must be done.

Go through all your tomato plants and bin ALL fruit that have holes in them.  Look for the tiny holes too.  The tiniest of prick holes is usually a sign that the worm has made its way into your fruit.  They go in small and fatten up fast.  Don’t just look for the big hole established infestation.

Bin them. 

SPRAY

A natural homemade solution

2 cups water

1 tsp of cayenne pepper

1 tsp of garlic

1 tsp dish soap

Spray your plants liberally with this ensuring that you get both sides of the leaves and stems.  Do this weekly.

Dipel is a natural bacterium spray/product that can be used very effectively in the treatment of this problem also.  Do this every 10 days.

Pyrethrins sprays (although I feel like these lack punch)  see label

Spinosad is a natural substance made by a soil bacterium that can be toxic to insects. It is a mixture of two chemicals called spinosynA and spinosyn D. It is used to control a wide variety of pests. These include thrips, leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants, fruit flies and others.

This substance will NOT AFFECT BEES bees and other beneficial insects but of course it may affect butterfly populations as it is an insecticide though natural.

Diatomaceous earth is another great alternative.  This dust can be safely sprinkled over your plants and will kill insects and worms if they come into contact.

As with any pest spraying protocol you need to REAPPLY!!  Don’t think you can spray once to solve the problem.  As the lifecycle of the larvae needs to be disrupted a continual regime of spraying needs to occur.

PREVENTION

Whilst it’s probably a little late in the game to talk about prevention do take this advice into your next spring/summer crops and save yourself some heartache by………

COMPANION PLANTING

Interplanting with herbs such as dill, basil and marigold is a great way to assist with the devastation of tomato worms!

Spray BEFORE you get infested

Spray your crops when they are young and give them protection from larvae AND save yourself a tonne of time!

CROP ROTATION

If you aren’t already practising crop rotation then I highly recommend not planting your tomatoes in the same spot each year.  Larvae tend to live in the soil so it’s important to remember this.

If space is a premium and you have to plant in the same spot then make sure that you are digging over your soil adding in compost to rejuvenate and kill any larvae living in the soil.  

Create good soil biology.

Finally……

It’s a devastating realisation to find that the dreaded budworm has infiltrated your tomatoes but yo

u can overcome the problem it will just take work!

On the other hand if it’s not too late in the season why not plant some more tomatoes and start again!

Big love from the garden

Sash xx

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You have probably heard how awesome anything fermented is for your gut health and sauerkraut is no exception.

It’s easy to think of only cabbage when it comes to sauerkraut but the reality is you can ferment so many other vegetables!

Beetroot is one of my favourite veg to add to sauerkraut.  The flavour is next level and that colour 🤩

Now if you have never fermented vegetables before don’t fret because it’s not as intimidating as you may think!  In fact it’s really EASY and I guarantee once you get the first one under your belt you’ll be experimenting and having lots of fun with fermenting vegetables.

If your a visual person a little while ago I did a YouTube video on how to make a SIMPLE sauerkraut which you can watch here

Before we get started there are a few rules of thumb about fermenting…..

1. Sterilisation of equipment is really important.  Make sure that the jars you are using and equipment are fully sterilised.  I usually just boil the kettle and fill my jars with boiling water.  I will also add boiling water to my other equipment.

2. Thoroughly wash your vegetables.  You want to make sure that you have removed any dirt or creepy crawlies from your produce.  

You’re probably going to be tempted to peel your vegetables…DON’T alot of the prebiotics are located in the skin and we want to keep them!  They will help with the fermenting process.  If need be give your beet, carrot or whatever vegetable your using a good scrub before hand to get rid of any dirt.

Now to get started…..

Equipment

• Large stainless steel or ceramic bowl
• Glass jars preferably with a wide rim mouth – for this recipe I used 3x 500ml ball mason jars.
• Lids and/or airlock lid
• Fermenting weights or extra cabbage leaves (to keep liquid above the fermenting veg)

A little note about fermenting jars and equipment

You can totally go out and buy specialty fermenting jars that have airlock lids, or fermenting crocks etc.  I’m a bit of a minimalist when it comes to stuff like that and like to use what I have on hand.

You DON’T need a lid with an airlock or a speciality jar to make sauerkraut but of course if you want to there are a range of products out there that are great.

What I am a fan of is fermenting weights (which we will get to later in the recipe) and I did purchase some of these even though, again, you don’t necessarily need them to ferment successfully.

HERE’S A LIST OF SOME GOOD PRICED FERMENTING PRODUCTS……..

Fermenting Weights 

These 500ml Kilner Wide Mouth Jars are fantastic value and can be used for other things not just fermenting. 

If you think you want jars with an airlock fitted I think these Waterless, Self Maintaining Airlock Tops self maintaining airlock caps are fantastic. 

HERE IS A LINK TO SOME OTHER GREAT FERMENTING PRODUCTS

(NOTE these are affiliate links)

So now back to the recipe….

Simple Tasty Beetroot & Cabbage Sauerkraut

Ingredients

• 1 small head of cabbage
• 1 large beetroot (unpeeled)
• 2 cloves of garlic
• Salt (1.5 – 2 tsp of salt per 500g of cabbage)

(Carrot and ginger are also good additions)

Directions

1. Thoroughly wash cabbage and beetroot.
2. Finely slice cabbage (weigh)
3. Grate beetroot
4. Crush garlic
5. Add veg to a bowl and sprinkle salt according to weight of cabbage (1.5 tsp- 2tsp per 500g)

Using clean hands massage veg squeezing and incorporating salt for 5 mins.

Let sit for 15 mins and then squeeze again.

You want the veg to release juices and the veg to be well macerated.

6. Using a clean sterilised jar, stuff sauerkraut into jars compressing and pushing tightly into the jar. There needs to be sufficient liquid in the jar to cover the veg by at least a 1.5cm – 2cm.

Don’t fill to the top. Leave sufficient head space because as the vegetables ferment, they will expand and fill the jar further, so you need to leave space for this, at least 1.5 inches (3-4cm).

7. In order to keep the vegetables covered with brine liquid, once finished add a glass weight or simply use a folded cabbage leaf to ensure liquid keeps the vegetable well covered.

8. Place a lid loosely on or if you have one use a fermenting cap.

9. Place in a warm spot away from direct sunlight. Pantries are a good spot.

It’s also a good idea to place a dish underneath the jars in case any liquid escapes as the vegetables expand.

10. Check daily removing the lid to expel gases and to push down weights ensuring liquid is always covering the vegetables.

The sauerkraut should be ready in around 5 days but may take longer during colder weather or less during warmer weather.

NOTE:  The longer it ferments the tangier it will become. Don’t be afraid to taste it as it ferments and see what tastes good for you (use a clean sterilised spoon so as not to contaminate) 

Experiment with longer and shorter ferment times to see what flavour you like best.

11. When you have the flavour you like, cover tightly with a lid and store in the fridge. It should last at least 3 months and up to 6 months. When serving, don’t double dip to avoid contamination 😉

Enjoy!

Big Love

Sash xx

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Wild violets are always a welcome sight in my garden during winter.  They love the cold and rain.  During Summer I find that they tend to die back somewhat in my garden bed because they don’t get nearly the water they should!

Aside from their easy low maintenance care, did you know these gorgeous little purple blooms are actually edible.

They make wonderful additions to cakes, desserts and salads and you have probably seen them make up some of the fabulous array of edible flower varieties people use.

Recently I decided to make Violet Syrup for a little fun to add to drinks such as cocktails, mocktails, or sodas.  I have fallen in love with how it colours my weekend gin cocktail!!

FULL DISCLOSURE the taste is VERY subtle and tastes more of the sugar in the syrup BUT hey the colour is AMAZING and if you didn’t know many cocktails incorporate sugar syrup into them!

Here’s the recipe…..

INGREDIENTS

1 cup of violet flowers

1 cup of boiling water

1 cup of sugar

METHOD

After gathering your violet flowers separate the petals from the calyxes (the green part of the base of the flowers).  We are only using the petals.

Place petals in a non plastic container and pour water over the petals.

Leave to steep for 24 hours at room temperature.

The water will turn a gorgeous clear light blue/lavender colour.

Using the double boiler method ie simmering water in a pot with a heatproof bowl placed over the top. Place petals and water into the heatproof bowl.

Add sugar and stir gently until sugar is dissolved.

Strain violet petals from syrup using a fine mesh sieve or piece of muslin.

Allow to cool and transfer into a steralised jar or bottle.

Store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.

Voila!!!  Cocktail hour is ready!!!

Enjoy!

Big LoveSash xx

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We tend to see more of these camouflaged creatures in the garden during the cooler month’s bingeing on your brassica leaves and anything else in its way!

It’s ability to blend into your brassicas etc without being seen is truly their superpower!

I know you want the silver bullet solution but honestly there isn’t one!

Here are a few ways to keep these glutinous pests at bay in the garden

REMEMBER in the organic garden if you want to stay on top of pests it really is an ONGOING job that needs attention!

Here’s some strategies….

🐛NETTING

Cover your crops with netting. If you have veggie pods then perfect their lids will really help. If you don’t, pest covers are a great way to reduce the threat of pests. They are pretty easy to purchase online or in nurseries BUT don’t be afraid to improvise your own up with shade cloth or old window screen mesh.

🐛SPRAYS

 The most common thing people want to reach for is some kind of spray…. And there are many out there, some more organic than others.

One important tip to remember when using sprays is that any spray will require an ongoing program in order to affect the life cycle of pests. Don’t spray once and think that’s going to work, it takes time.

Pyrethrum is a common ingredient used in natural sprays which can work well but bare in mind that it can also kill beneficial bugs and insects in the garden too, which can be counterproductive if your trying to create a garden ecosystem that can in some ways nuatrally fight of pests.

Dipel spray is a common organic and safe spray which works as a toxin killing the caterpillars that ingest leaves treated with it.  Dipel is made using a bacterium called bacillus thuringiensis.

Reasons to like this type of commercial spray is…

It is selective & only kills leaf eating caterpillars.

Harmless is birds & wildlife

No withholding period when it comes to ingesting food sprayed with it.

Homemade recipes

If you’re looking for a solution that doesn’t contain any chemicals then there are homemade recipes that may just do the trick for you.

Mixing equal quantities of white flour & water to form a paste and then diluting it further with water and then sprayed on leaves can suffocate caterpillars in their tracks…but again this isn’t selective and other beneficial insects may be affected.

Garlic/chilli solution can help.  Steep garlic & chilli in boiling water overnight.  Drain & add a few drops of soap to water.  This spray can help with deterring cabbage moth. 

Neem oil can be a useful product to use to prevent cabbage moths but unfortunately if you have an infestation it’s not going to kill them for you.

🐛COMPANION PLANTING

 Companion planting can help deter cabbage moth effectively.  Plants such as dil, onion, garlic, lavender, oregano & thyme make useful companion plants for this reason.

🐛MANUAL REMOVAL

A favourite and the most effective solution for me is simply daily removal by hand. I’ll check brassicas daily and get rid of any caterpillars.

🐛CREATE MOTH DECOYS

In much the same way that a scarecrow can keep birds at bay creating moth-like decoys around the garden can keep cabbage moths at bay. They are territorial and will not usually want to lay eggs where they think other cabbage moths are laying their eggs.

🐛 White bread tags attached to brassica leaves

🐛Recycle white shopping bags  by cutting and shaping pieces to look like a bow and      attaching to small stakes around brassicas

🐛Moth decoys can also be purchase online

The biggest advice I have is to check on your plants regularly!

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It’s all about being efficient with your use of space!

GROW QUICK GROW PLANTS ALONGSIDE LONGER GROWING PLANTS

Broccoli for example takes around 3 months to grow.  While the seedlings are growing why not plant some lettuce or other greens in the blank spaces that the broccoli will eventually fill.

TRELLISING & CAGES

Vegetables like peas come to mind when you think of trellising but there are many plants that you may not have thought of trellising.  Basically, anything that is trailing eg zucchini, cucumber, pumpkins can be trellised.

Additionally trellising can also manage the spread of plants keeping them trained to a certain shape without completely running wild and taking over.  Purple sprouting broccoli for example can grow rather high and bushy.  If grown in a cage you can limit the spread allowing you to plant more in one area.  Tomato cages are brilliant for this too.

GROW THE RIGHT VARIETY

For many urban dwellers the luxury of a huge backyard has become harder to achieve with block sizes and homes being dramatically reduced.  Seed varieties have adapted with this and you can now buy seeds that are more suited to small spaces.

Eg. Sprouting varieties of broccoli are a great space saver in the garden allowing you to harvest from a single plant over a long period of time rather than planting lots of single head broccoli.

You can also find cabbages and cauliflower varieties that are smaller in size too.

Dwarf varieties of trees and vegetables are very common nowadays.

PLANT LONG HARVEST VEGETABLES

Think about planting vegetables that give over a longer period of time.  This way you don’t have to keep finding space for successive planting.

Some cool season vegetables such as kale, spinach, silver beet, rocket, peas, snow peas, spring onions are all great vegetables that provide continual harvests.

USE CONTAINERS & GROW BAGS

 If a patch of dirt is hard to find there are so many wonderful containers and grow bags on the market that allow you to grow even with a concrete backyard!

It doesn’t need to cost the earth either!!  Be imaginative with your containers…. what do you have lying around the house or yard that could be repurposed.

SHARE GARDEN

Grow with a friend or neighbour.  For example, you grow the broccoli, and they grow the cauliflower.  Sharing your produce with others and all growing something different could save you a heap of space in the garden!

DIG UP SOME OF YOUR LAWN or VERGE

I love my lawn but do consider if some of your lawn would be better utilised as a garden bed!  The beauty of urban living is that community parks, playgrounds and green spaces are quite widespread nowadays giving you the option of enjoying those benefits and using your lawn space to grow food instead!

MAKE ROOM BY PRUNING

Regular pruning of plants can make space.  Brassicas for example can be extremely leafy.  I regularly prune diseased and low-lying leaves to feed to my chooks.  It creates more space and gets rid of any growth that is drawing extra energy from the plant too!

GROWING YOUR OWN DOESN’T HAVE TO BE AN ALL OR NOTHING THING!

Anything that you can grow and bring to the kitchen is going to be worthwhile!  You don’t have to grow everything.  Start small. Start somewhere!

Having a small space doesn’t mean you can’t be growing your own food in some shape or form.

Big love from the garden

Sash xx

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I’m so grateful to be able to share my journey, tips and tricks  with you.

What can you expect?

My blogs will be all about sharing information from garden tips and  tricks to kitchen recipes and self sufficiency hacks.  

Highlights from my garden and what seasonal action I’ve been taking.  I’ll also keep you updated with my latest “how to” videos and guidance to help YOU in your own gardening journey!

If you haven’t already subscribed to my monthly newsletter please do!  I’ll give you all my seasonal guidance about what you can be planting in the garden and other ideas to help your garden evolve and grow.

I’m here to support you as much as I can whether you’re just starting out or whether you are a seasoned vegetable gardener.

Fresh, glorious vegetables and fruit picked straight from your garden to table is my ultimate goal and I’m keen to help everyone arm themselves with the skills and confidence to create self sufficiency on  the smallest or grandest scale.

Disclaimer:   I’m no expert…..I don’t know everything… but I have learnt a fair bit in my gardening journey and to be honest gardening is a constant state of learning and growing. I’ve found the best way to do that is to just jump in and start getting your hands in the dirt.  Learning from experience is ALWAYS the best teacher…and PASSION and WILLINGNESS well that’s the secret sauce!

So thanks for coming along for the ride. I’d love to hear about you too so please keep the conversation flowing!

Big Love from the garden

Sasha x

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From June to early August (here in Australia) is an excellent time to plant your fruit trees BUT not all fruit trees!

The fruit trees you want to plant in winter are deciduous fruit trees (trees that lose their leaves through winter). These include trees such as apples, pears, apricots, peaches, plumbs, nectarines etc.

Why winter?  Deciduous trees are in their dormant phase. Planting them at this time of the year gives them time to settle into the ground while they aren’t expending energy for growth.  That way as temperatures begin to increase and your trees start to wake up, entering their growth period, they are somewhat established.  This will make a huge difference in how well they cope with the increasing temperatures during Summer and assist them with their growth seasons.

Bare rooted trees are a cost effective and popular way to purchase fruit trees.  Bare Root  basically means that these trees have been grown in a field or in the ground and have been dug up, given a little TLC and then are sent off to market for purchase, usually their roots wrapped in plastic bags with a bit of soil medium.

What  trees not to plant in winter!

Evergreen fruit trees (trees that keep their leaves all year round) such as avocado and citrus are best planted in early spring or autumn.  This is because the soil has more warmth and will assist the plant to settle in while still supporting root and leaf growth.

Personally here in South Australia I like planting these evergreens in autumn so they have extra time before they hit the brutalities of summer heat and dryer soils.

TIPS FOR SELECTING GOOD FRUIT TREES

Overall how healthy does the plant look?

Look at the buds..   are they damaged or sickly?

Do the limbs look strong and healthy?

Does the bark have any wounds or signs of disease?

Look for any deadwood.

How do the leaves look?  Withering and barely hanging on or strong and healthy.

How do the roots look? Well cared for and sitting in friable soil medium or dried out exposed and busting out of the container.

Look at the overall shape of the tree.

Ideally you want one that has a nice straight trunk and isn’t going to require any pruning just yet. You’re looking for a nice vase shape with 2-3 strong healthy limbs.

If you’re buying a tree that’s been grafted, make sure the root stock hasn’t taken over the top grafted portion of the tree.

A grafted fruit tree is where 2 separate plants have been manually joined together.  The root stock makes up the bottom section of the tree, and it is usually selected because of its vigorous growth habit.  The top part of the tree is selected for the best fruit or perhaps disease resistance. DON’T LET THE ROOT STOCK TAKE OVER.

LOCATION & ENVIRONMENT

There are so many fruit trees to choose from nowadays so you can literally select one that’s right for your specific needs.

Consider the following

Space

Where are you planting it?  How much space is there?

Check the labels of your trees and see how big it will grow and select according to this.

If it’s a small space then a dwarf variety makes more sense.  If you have the luxury of more space you can select a standard fruit tree.

Does your tree need a pollinator?

Not all trees are able to self pollinate (set fruit) and require cross pollination (usually with the help of bees and wind) between 2 varieties.  Apple and almonds are 2 examples of fruit trees that require at least 2 trees in order to effectively pollinate.

Is your location in a sunny spot sheltered from wind?

Most fruit trees really do benefit from a sheltered position and your trees will need a fair amount of sunlight in order to do well.

What ph requirements do you fruit trees need? 

First and foremost do a soil test in the area that you intend to plant.  What ph range does the fruit tree need in order to thrive? A quick google should give a good guide.  Adjust your soil to accommodate your plant or choose a variety that is more suited to your soil type.

It really is a good idea to prepare your spot before you go ahead and plant.

What kind of climate do you have and is the tree you’re selecting compatible with that?

I’m all for growing things from different regions, but some things really do do better in different climates.  But having said that you can always manipulate your environment to help fruit trees grow in your region so be aware of its wants and needs.

These are all really important things to consider BEFORE you go out and buy your fruit trees.

WHERES THE BEST PLACE TO BUY FRUIT TREES

Personally I prefer to buy my fruit trees locally because I know that they have been grown and raised in a similar climate and I can buy a bigger more established tree. However there are times when you may want a variety that isnt available locally or you just don’t have access to a local nursery.

I recommend Garden Express, The Diggers Club (especially for heirloom varieties) and Dalys Fruit Trees for online purchases.

What ever you decide to do make your your planting at the right time of year, you have selected well and given your tree the best spot in the yard!

What are you planting this year?

Until next time

Big Love from the Garden

Sasha xx

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If you’ve been following me for long enough, you know that my style of gardening is ALL about improvising and using my imagination to keep my gardening costs to a minimum! 

That doesn’t mean I don’t spend on the important stuff; it just means that if I can find a cheaper option out there, I’ll usually go for it! I mean that’s one of the reasons for growing your own right?!   Keeping costs down!!

So, here’s my tips for saving money in the garden!

Here in Australia, we have Facebook Marketplace and Gumtree which are 2 online platforms to buy and sell stuff.  Do check these out! Not only can you find cheap stuff there’s a whole category of GIVEAWAY items.

Do slow down when it’s hard rubbish in certain suburbs. I’ve picked up some amazing stuff off the side of the road. Remember one man’s trash is another man’s treasure!

Bulk buy where possible. Need some soil? Why not go halves with a friend.  Bulk buying is always cheaper BUT REMEMBER it’s only cheap if you need it! Don’t go out and buy bulk if you’re never going to use it all!! Eg buying 100 seedling pots just because they work out at a better price. Buy only what you need or can use for later. 

Use your IMAGINATION! Garden beds and trellising is my favourite way to utilise this skill. You can literally use a tonne of different things! The only question you need to ask is “will it do the job?”. Furthermore, this style of gardening is useful until you CAN afford something better.

Only grow what you eat!! I know this sounds obvious, but I have literally fallen into this trap and ended up with a whole crop of broad beans taking up space in my garden, when no one in the family really loved them… except my mother in law.

Consider irrigation. Yes, it can be an outlay in the beginning, but it WILL save you money on your water bill and save you SOOOO much time!! Plus, you can always add to irrigation so even if you start small you can overtime implement more into the garden.

Ps I once found a whole stack of dripper irrigation on the side of the road!!

Mulching with pea straw will save on your water bill while adding to soil microbiology. Consider bulk buying with friends. TIP go direct to a farmer.  It might be a longer drive but I’ve found the price of pea straw to be so much cheaper this way!  If you get a whole group of people buying bulk the farmer may even deliver to you?!

Do plant your own seeds.  I know that seed sowing can be a little bit of trial and error when starting out, but it will get easier through experience.  Or why not buy seedlings of harder to sow vegetables and sow the easy ones.

Start a compost pile or source out your local horse stable for manure.

These are just a few ways….what are tips for saving money in the garden?

Big love from the garden

Sasha x

#gardeningaustralia #vegetablegardening #selfsufficiency #homesteading #hobbyfarm #gardeningonabudget #gardeningforbeginners #gardentips #growyourown #gardeningbooks #savemoney  #howtogrowvegetables

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